DIY Series 43: Hitachi Washing Machine (SF-110LJ) Error Code C9

Symptoms:

• Old Hitachi Washing Machine (SF-110LJ) is having Error Code (C9)

Findings:

• Suspect Lid Lock / Door Lock is malfunction

Photos:

1. Location of lid lock / door lock mechanism
2. Error Code C9 was displayed on the screen
3. Unscrew top cover screw at left side
4. Another 3 screws (right side, and at the back)
5. Open up the top cover, unscrew 4 screws
6. Location of the lid lock / door lock
7. Detached the 4 cables attached to the lid lock / door lock
8. Unscrew 2 screws to remove the lid lock / door lock
9. Replacement Part: NTCY001CC3 (OEM Part)

Tools required:

• Screwdriver, plier

Costs involved:

• NTCY001CC3 (OEM Part) for Hitachi SF-110LJ: US$15

DIY Series 42: Pensonic Slow Cooker (PSC-301) Malfunction

Symptoms:

• All status LEDs (Low, Auto, High) are working fine when Power ON, but slow cooker is not heating up.

Findings:

• Found that the thermistor is having open circuit.
• This thermistor should be NC (Normally Closed) by default.

Photos:

1. Turn the slow cooker upside down to start to dismantle the external housing
2. Unscrew the center nut (1st nut)
3. Unscrew the 2 screws of power cord
4. Remove the power cord cover so that the power cord is easily pull out (when needed)
5. Remove the knob cover
6. Remove the nut under the knob cover using plier
7. Push the knob into the housing
8. Remove the inner metal base pot from the external housing
9. Unscrew 2nd nut from the screw to take out the Earth Line
10. Unscrew 3rd nut to remove the thermistor (use plier) and check using multimeter, replace with new thermistor (for this case)
11. Thermistor: KSD301, 250V, 10A, 150°C. (Original part was 145°C)
12. Info on NC (Normally Closed) and NO (Normally Open)

Tools required:

• Screwdriver (https://s.lazada.com.my/s.PIrZM)
• Multimeter (https://s.lazada.com.my/s.PII5y)
• Plier

Costs involved:

Thermistor (KSD-301, 250V, 10A, 150 Degree Celsius, NC): 

• Online Store: US$1 ~ US$2
• Physical Store: US$2 ~ US$3

DIY Series 41: Repair Blown LED Light Bulb (E14 Type, 16W)

Symptoms:

• LED Light Bulb is not working when Power ON, suspect some parts were burnt

Findings: 

• Found burnt mark at 3.9kOhm resistor (Marking: 392)
• Use multimeter to check the resistance on each resistor
• 2 out of 3 resistors were blown, need replacement parts 

Photos:

1. E14 Type LED Light Bulb (16W)
2. Location where the 3.9kOhm resistors were blown
3. Bought a light bulb socket (E27 Type) and converter (E27 to E14) for easy testing
4. E14 Type LED Light Bulb is working now after fixing

Tools required:

• Multimeter (https://s.lazada.com.my/s.PII5y)
• Soldering tools (https://s.lazada.com.my/s.PIrp3)
• Tweezer

Costs involved:

• SMD Resistor (3.9kOhm, 2pcs): US$0.02

DIY Series 40: DIY Repair Rubine IA991D DC Pump Instant Water Heater (No Hot Water, Red LED is OFF)

Symptoms:

• Heater LED is not ON. No hot water.

Findings: 

• Flow Sensor: Magnet misaligned, reed switch is not ON/OFF accordingly
• Thermistor: Thermistor at the top of tank need to be reset (NC: Normally Closed).

[Note: Turn OFF the power supply before any installation / checking / debugging] 

Videos:

1. Test the flow sensor using multimeter (flip it over to let the magnet touch the reed switch). Multimeter shows short circuit (with beep sound) means flow sensor is working fine.
2. Test the Heater is working or not by install it back with power and water supply. Red LED will be turned ON and hot water will flow out if flow sensor & thermistor is in good condition.

Photos:

1. Rubine IA991D DC Pump Instant Water Heater (with internal block diagram)
2. Dismantle of power supply wires (E/L/N)
3. Unscrew 4 pcs of screws to take it down from the wall
4. Checking on flow sensor (reed switch and magnet) functionality, remove the reed switch cover
5. Checking on the thermistor functionality, press the button on top (to reset) if it is not shorted
6. Power ON (without water supply) and test the flow sensor (refer 1st video above)
7. Power ON (with water supply) and test the heater function (refer 2nd video above)

Tools required:

• Screwdriver (https://s.lazada.com.my/s.PIrZM)
• Multimeter (https://s.lazada.com.my/s.PII5y)
• Test Pen

 

Costs involved:

• NIL (New Flow Sensor costs about US$15)
• NIL (New Thermistor costs about US$1 ~ US$2)

Action Taken:

• Dismantle the flow sensor, take out the magnet and clean it, then realign it back to work with reed switch correctly.
• Reset the thermistor if it is not shorted by default (NC: Normally Closed).
• Thermistor might need to be replaced if it is frequently disconnected in near future.

DIY Series 39: Repair Phison Infrared Cooker (PIC-2280)

Symptoms:

• Left Side: Auto cut-off after 3 min Power ON
• Right Side: No heat after Power ON

Findings: 

• Left Side: Incorrect wiring connection by previous repairer
• Right Side: Temperature Sensor (heat sensor) malfunction

Photos:

1. Example of Infrared Cooker
2. Dismantle the unit from the bottom side, unscrew 16 pcs of screws.
3. Left Side: Incorrect wiring by repairer, shorted the OUT2 wiring directly to "N" (Neutral) terminal.
4. Left Side: Fixed the wiring back to original location, use hot glue gun to seal the connection.
5. Right Side: Temperature sensor detected having open circuit, suspect wiring disconnected at the tip. 
6. Right Side: Source new part from online store, and replace it.
7. Right Side: Dismantle the heating element and turn to the back, connect the new part with 2 screws.
8. Right Side: Connect the other end of temperature sensor to the control board.
9. The Infrared Cooker after fixing done (before close back the casing).

Video:

1. Infrared Cooker operation back to normal

Tools required:

• Screwdriver (https://s.lazada.com.my/s.PIrZM)
• Multimeter (https://s.lazada.com.my/s.PII5y)
• Hot glue gun

Costs involved:

• Temperature sensor: US$1 ~ US$2 

DIY Series 38: Euro Profile Cylinder Lock

Euro Profile Cylinder Lock (Disassemble & Replacement)

The euro cylinder lock is one of the most commonly used lock profiles by locksmiths and architectural ironmongers since it is so easy to install, modify with additional security measures, or replace; it is seen in both domestic and commercial properties, offering protection and security for a variety of premises and facilities.

Symptoms: 

Unable to open the lock using the key. Suspect the lock mechanism stuck.

First time trying to understand this Euro Profile Cylinder Lock. Found out there are so many types in different dimension. 

This time I bought the parts from local store due to urgency. It is almost double the price.

I can get it online at half of the price or even lower.

Video:

Test the new Euro Profile Cylinder Lock using key

Photos:

(A) Euro Profile Cylinder Lock

1. Types of Euro Cylinder Lock
2. Typical Disassemble Steps 
3. Example of Cylinder Size
4. Measuring Guide (Length)

(B) Disassemble 

1. Unscrew 2 screws from the handle (internal side)
2. After removing the screws
3. Use spanner to twist to left/right to make the lock broken
   (key point of this sharing, in order to unlock the door)
4. Take out the broken cylinder lock
5. Pictures of the broken cylinder lock
6. Use screwdriver to unlock the tongue of the lock
7. Unrelease the tongue in order to open the door

[ Note: Alternatively, you may opt to perform (B)6 and (B)7 easily using new lock with key, if you have the new spare part. The procedures are same as shown in the video above. I do not have the new lock available at that time, thus I have to use screwdriver to unlatch the tongue of the lock. ]

(C) Replacement Parts

1. Get the correct dimension of the lock body that you need
2. Get the suitable cylinder lock that can fit into the lock body
3. Dismantle the broken lock body from the door
4. Insert the new lock body and tighten it with 2 screws
5. Insert the cylinder lock into the lock body
6. Test the lock with key, then tighten it with the screw provided
7. Insert the metal bar (reuse old parts) from external side into the hole
8. Place one of the handle (reuse old parts) at external side
9. Tighten 2 screws at the handle (external side)
10. Tighten 2 screws at the handle (internal side)

Tools required:

• Screwdriver

Costs involved:

• Lock Body: US$14 (local store), US$7 (online)
• Cylinder Lock: US$7 (local store), US$4 (online)

 

Cost savings:

• Repair charges (depends on service provided)

DIY Series 37: Washing Machine Inner Drain Hose (Leaking)

Symptoms: 

Water leaking at the bottom of washing machine during washing process.

Photos:

1. Open the bottom cover, you will see the inner drain hose having leakage
2. Remove the broken inner drain hose with help of a blade
3. Use any suitable size drain hose to replace (not necessary the original part)
4. Picture of original part from online store (Price: US$5 ~ US$6)

Tools required:

• Screwdriver, blade

Costs involved:

• NIL (use recycle part from previous leftover drain hose)

Cost savings:

• Repair charges = At least USD$10
• Inner Drain Hose = US$5 ~ US$6

DIY Series 36: Projector Debugging & Fixing (Temperature Error)

This is the 1st time I look into projector fixing.

• Last Sunday, I received a malfunction projector from my church. 
• I was informed that it was unable to operate due to having blinking "Temperature" LED.
• Initial suspect, it was due to cooling fan malfunction.

Video:

• Projector entering "Temperature" error after Power ON
  
  
  
  
  

Photos:

1. Unscrew 1 screw and remove the cover of Light Bulb Module
2. Unscrew several screws on the Interface Cover
   
3. Unscrew this screw in order to remove the Interface Cover
4. Flip to the bottom side, unscrew several screws to remove the Top Cover
   
5. There are total of 3 Cooling Fans at <A>, <B>, <C>. <A>: Light Bulb Cooling Fan <B>: Intake Fan <C>: Exhaust Fan
6. Remove the filter cover at Cooling Fan <B>, check the filter condition and fan condition
   
   
   
7. Buy a sheet of general air purifier filter, cut it into the size required
8. The filter holder after clean up the broken old filter
9. Insert the newly cut filter into the filter holder
   
10. In order to dismantle the top cover, please disconnect the cable from the main board
11. Unscrew 2 screws and pull out the Light Bulb Module to check its condition (if needed)
12. Check the Part No (ELPLP88) for the Light Bulb Module (if replacement part is needed). For this case, it is in good condition
13. Check the Cooling Fan <A> condition and its connector to main board
    (It is a bit challenging to dismantle this fan to see it is working or not, due to tight fitting space)
    
    
    
    
    
14. Check the Cooling Fan <C> and found a dead lizard on it, blocking the fan from rotating
15. Dead lizard taken out from the projector Cooling Fan <C>

Summary:

• Light Bulb Module and Cooling Fan <A>, <B>, <C> are in working conditions.
• Projector detected that there is "Temperature" error because Cooling Fan <C> is not rotating.
• It was the dead lizard that blocking the Cooling Fan <C> from rotating.
• Thus, the dead lizard is the culprit. :D

Tools required:

• Screwdriver

Costs involved:

• General Air Purifier Filter Sheet = US$2

Cost savings:

• Projector filter with holder = US$10 ~ US$20
• Projector Cooling Fan = US$20 ~ US$30
• Repair labour cost = US$20 ~ US$50