DIY Series 25: Fixing Panasonic NA-F75S7 Washing Machine Feeding Valve (Water Inlet Valve)

 This is about repair / fixing of Panasonic Washing Machine (Model: NA-F75S7) water inlet valve (feeding valve).

Before fixing, this is the video on how the incoming water flow into washing machine. Sometimes even worst than this, at worst case, no water will flow in at all (and even make loud noise).

To solve this problem, you will need to source a new unit of water inlet valve (feeding valve) as below. The part number is FVS-144V1:

You can buy from either online platform or get it from local electronics trading shop. The price ranging from RM20 to RM30 (OEM Parts) and RM42 to RM78 (Panasonic Original Parts).

Let's start the repair / fixing as below:

1) Disconnect the incoming pipe from washing machine

2) Unscrew the 4 screws at both side of washing machine

3) Unlatch the latch (left side) and the spring (right side) to remove the top cover lid

4) Lift up the cover and unscrew the 4 screws at the black plastic tray (under the top cover)

5) You will see the water inlet valve (feeding valve) placed inside the black plastic tray.

6) Unscrew the 2 screws and unplug the wiring connector, you may now remove the malfunction water inlet valve (feeding valve)

7) Remove the black rubber from old part to new part

8) Place the new part onto its original location and screw it, then reconnect back the wiring connector

9) Put back the black plastic tray, screw it and then assemble back the top cover.

10) Reconnect back the spring (right side) and the latch (left side) in order to secure the top cover lid

11) Power ON the washing machine and you will now see the water flow into washing machine at normal condition

The Panasonic washing machine NA-F75S7 is back to normal. Have a try!

Note: According to replacement part seller, the OEM parts might have slight misalignment at the 2 connector pins, need to adjust manually in order to allow it to slot into the wiring connector. Thus, I choose to buy the original parts this time.  

DIY Series 24: Sharp Sound Bar HT-SB115 Power Supply Module Malfunction

Sharp Sound Bar HT-SB115 is one of the cheapest sound bar available in the market that can support HDMI ARC (Audio Return Channel), where when connected to TV with HDMI ARC port, its volume control can be sync to TV with control using the TV remote control.

I choose this model because of the HDMI ARC feature and also its impressive outlook design. 

In order to use the HDMI ARC feature, you will need to source a better high-speed HDMI cable. For example: IDT HDMI Cable

I am satisfy with this sound bar performance since I have it. Almost immediately after 1 year, on 02/Mar/2022, suddenly it is no longer working (no sound) after I heard of a loud "THUD" explosion sound. There is no burnt smell and damage from external view.

Here is the unit that I am having. I tried to contact Sharp Service Center via email but no reply from Sharp until today. I am disappointed with Sharp Malaysia, thus I have decided to open it and see how to fix it myself.

When I opened up the center part of the housing, I found 2 pieces of PCB stacking on top of each other. 1st PCB is power supply module (12V, 30W), and 2nd PCB is the main control board. 

I took out the 1st PCB (Power Supply Module), when I turned it over, I found black spots at certain discrete components (mainly 3 resistors & 1 capacitor), thus I suspect this is the root cause of the malfunction (power supply module was burnt).

In order to fix it, there are 2 possible solutions:

1) To identify the components and buy the parts to replace

2) To bypass the 1st PCB Board (Power Supply Module), connect external 12V directly to 2nd PCB

After searching online, I found out it is quite difficult to identify all the burnt parts and source it one by one. Thus, I choose to try on 2nd solution, getting an external power supply.

To proceed, I bought the following items:

a) AC/DC Power Supply (12V, 4A)

b) DC Jack 2.1mm (or from local hardware shop)

Here are the steps on how to connect the external power supply module:

1) Removed the 1st PCB (Power Supply Module) from the housing

2) Desolder the 2-pin power plug socket from PCB and put it back to the housing to cover the hole after removed the 1st PCB

3) Drill a hole at the housing and connect the DC Jack onto the housing using silicon gun

4) Connect the cable from DC Jack to the 2nd PCB (Main Control Board) by modify the original cable provided (cut the socket and screw it to the DC Jack).

5) Before screw the housing back to Sound Bar, connect the external power supply module (12V, 4A) to the DC Jack and power on to test it

6) The sound bar is back to normal. It is now working with the new external power supply (12V, 4A)

To conclude, it is not so difficult to solve it, instead of waiting for Sharp Service Center to reply in "forever" loop. 

Proud to be able to fix it with just below MYR$20.