Samsung WA88V4 Washing Machine Repair (Part 2 of 2) - Motor
Symptoms:
- Upon Power ON, all Wash/Rinse/Spin Mode are not working.
- Both drum and pulsator are not rotating at all at any mode.
- Water inside the drum is not able to drain out
Findings:
- Even after replaced Gear Mechanism and Rubber Belt but still not working
- Found out the AC Motor was burnt, and capacitor was broken
- Found out the drain motor is occasionally malfunctioning
Photos:
- Samsung Washing Machine WA88V4
- Washing Machine motor (Model: WAS165WTVA) is burnt, need to get replacement.
- AC Motor Start/Run Capacitor (CBB65, 8uF) is not working. Measured Value = 6.97nF (broken)
- New OEM AC Motor (Model: WAS165WTVA, 150W)
- New AC Motor (180W ~ 220W) Wiring & Functional Check
- Red - Blue : 32.1 Ohm
- Blue - Purple: 31.6 Ohm
- Red - Purple: 63.1 Ohm
- Blue is Common, AC Motor Start/Run Capacitor will be connected to Red and Purple
- Calculation to get suitable AC Motor Start/Run Capacitor. Recommended: 12uF ~ 16uF
- New AC Motor Run Capacitor (CBB60, 435V, 16uF). Measured Value = 16uF
- New Motor and Start/Run Capacitor wiring connection diagram
- New Motor + New Capacitor Testing: For Clock-Wise (CW) rotation
- New Motor + New Capacitor Testing: For Counter-Clock-Wise (CCW) rotation
- Install new capacitor (16uF) and new motor
- Install new rubber belt
- Install new drain motor
Videos:
- New Motor + New Capacitor Testing: For Clock-Wise (CW) rotation
- New Motor + New Capacitor Testing: For Counter-Clock-Wise (CCW) rotation
Tools required:
Cost involved:
- WA88V4 OEM AC Motor (Model: WAS165WTVA) = US$22 ~ US$25
- CBB60/CBB65 AC Motor Start/Run Capacitor 450V 8uF = US$2 ~ US5
- Drain motor = US$5
Info Share:
- When a motor first starts up, it needs more power than once it runs continuously. This extra boost of power is supplied by the capacitor, which acts as a battery to store power for when it is needed.
- If the washing machine capacitor is bad, there may not be enough power for the motor to start, and your washing machine may not work at all. However, the motor may try to pull excessive current, which can cause the motor's windings (the coils of wire inside the motor) to overheat and potentially burn out. Your washing machine might run but be slow and not work properly or efficiently.
[ 2026-04-07 ] More Info on AC Motor
Terminal Identification (Induction Motor)
- To wire a 3-wire Samsung induction motor, you must identify the Common, Main (Clockwise), and Auxiliary (Counter-Clockwise) terminals. These motors use a Permanent Split Capacitor (PSC) design to handle both washing and spinning functions.
Identification and Wiring Steps
- Identify the Terminals (Resistance Test): Use a multimeter to measure the resistance between each pair of wires.
- Common Terminal: The pair with the highest resistance consists of the two "direction" wires. The third wire—the one not involved in that measurement—is your Common.
- Main vs. Auxiliary: Measure from the Common to each of the other two wires. The wire with slightly lower resistance is typically for the main run (Spin), while the higher resistance is for the auxiliary/starting (Wash).
- Capacitor Connection:
- Connect the Capacitor between the two wires identified as Main and Auxiliary.
- One side of the capacitor connects to the Main wire, and the other side connects to the Auxiliary wire.
- Power Connections:
- Connect the Neutral (usually Blue) directly to the Common terminal of the motor.
- Connect the Live to either side of the capacitor to determine the motor's direction:
- Live to Main + Capacitor side A: Clockwise rotation (Spin).
- Live to Auxiliary + Capacitor side B: Counter-clockwise rotation (Wash).
Connecting the main (run) and auxiliary (start) wires incorrectly on a 3-wire induction motor can lead to several performance and safety issues. While these motors are often designed to be reversible, the two windings are usually not identical.
Key Issues from Incorrect Wiring
- Reduced Power & Torque: If you swap the main and auxiliary windings, the motor may still run but will likely operate at significantly reduced power. It may struggle to start under a heavy load, such as a full drum of wet clothes.
- Overheating & Burnout: The auxiliary winding is typically made of thinner wire and is not designed for continuous high-current operation. If it is forced to act as the "main" winding, it will likely overheat and eventually burn out the motor's insulation.
- Incorrect Rotation: Swapping the connections to the auxiliary winding relative to the main winding will cause the motor to spin in the opposite direction.
- Electrical Noise & Vibration: An unbalanced connection can cause the motor to become electrically "noisy," creating electromagnetic interference (EMI) and excessive mechanical vibration that can damage bearings over time.
- Tripping Breakers: In extreme cases of incorrect wiring (such as a dead short), your home's circuit breaker may trip immediately to prevent a fire.
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